Bombyx
Mori is a plain looking silk moth whose caterpillars live on mulberry
leaves.
The caterpillar sheds the silk thread in order to pupate itself. Day
and night it spins miles and miles of an endless thread around itself
until it is surrounded by a hard, dove-egg sized shell. Before the
moth completes its metamorphosis by hatching, the cocoon is killed
with hot steam. Then the silk raffia which held the cocoon together
can be unraveled in boiling water. Now the delicate, snow-white silk
thread can be ABGEHASPELT (rolled off).
The Chinese kept the secret of silk production to themselves for thousands
of years. Silk worm breeding stood under the custody of the Empress
of China. Espionage or betrayal of the manufacturing process was sentenced
with capital punishment.
Beyond the Chinese Wall incredible sums were paid for silk fabrics,
the most precious ones being worth their weight in gold. It was only
about 1400 years ago that a few eggs of the silk moth Bombyx Mori were
smuggled to Byzanz, hidden in hollow pilgrim sticks. Around the Mediterranean
Sea mulberry plantations and silk moth cultivation came into being.
Today still the most beatiful silk fabrics are produced in the silk
weaving centres of those times.
Wild silk comes from different kinds of wild living peacock butterflies,
the Tussah moth being the best known. Wild silk cannot be ABGEHASPELT
(unraveled) (rolled off), it is irregular and thicker than mulberry
silk. The sticky substance is harder to take off which gives the thread
a rougher touch. Part of the colour pigments remain in the thread giving
wild silk its typical colouring that ranges from silver, sandy and
brownish to gold.
Silk fibres are processed according to their length. Long fibres are
VERZWIRNT made into smooth and shimmering balls of thread(GARNROLLEN)
and are suitable for finest fabrics.
SCHAPPsilk is made from shorter fibres, e.g. from hatched cocoons that
are combed and spun. The very short fibres are processed to bourette
silk which has little shimmer and a knobbly appearance. It feels and
looks a little like cotton and it is hardwearing and warm.
Silk feels good to the skin, protects equally well against heat or
coldness and like wool takes up to 30% of humidity without feeling
damp. It doesn’t crease, it is elastic and tearproof. No other
material feels so sensual, the shiny glow reminding of spun light.
Silk protects our nervous system from negative influences. It helps
us to stay centered and sets our chickens free.